As several BSP participants have
expressed before me, it is an impossible task to capture the entire Oaxaca
travel seminar into a blog post. Summarizing each speaker, visit, and
impression invalidates the complexity of each experience and yet each of these
pieces was instrumental in the overall trip. Therefore, while I selfishly feel relieved
for an opportunity to start processing the past ten days, I am also blatantly
selecting portions to describe and leaving many out.
On our last day in Oaxaca, we were
asked to split into pairs and create a representation of what we had been
processing over the last few days (in a physical map, song, dance or whatever form
we wanted). My partner for the project, Asa, had a brilliant idea that we
should just talk to each other at first and see what came out. While I was
initially taken aback by the idea (shouldn’t we just dive straight into the
project?) I soon appreciated being able to just talk with someone about what I
had been feeling for the past ten days. After this conversation, we narrowed
down our reflection into major themes. Toward the goal of attempting a
comprehensive and thoughtful approach, here are a few of our categories and
accompanying stories. Please know that there were countless more challenging
and beautiful moments that I wish I had the capacity and time to share.
1.
Language
Though the travel seminar officially
started with a 5:30am van ride, three different airports, and several Sudoku puzzles,
it began for me with Ruth. A former government employee for thirty years, Ruth
now hosts students from different programs and regularly has students coming
and going from her beautiful home. She was an incredible host—full of tips
about how we should take advantage of our time in Oaxaca (going to the square
and listening to music), the best kinds of mezcal (crema de mezcal), and where
to get the best kind of tlayudas (her home).
One evening at the dinner table, we were
all discussing our intended plans for the evening and somehow the conversation turned
to our musical talents in the group. Hastily, I mentioned that one of our group
members loves to sing—and suddenly we had all planned a concert for the next
evening. We immediately began to joke about how we were going to spend the
evening demonstrating our vocal talents at the zócolo and what our group names
might be. We were sitting around the table laughing and for several seconds we
seemed to embody the “laugher is the universal language” cliché that is
constantly thrown around. However, when we performed the next evening, our
spontaneous line-up looked something like this: the Beatles, Death Cab for
Cutie, and Britney Spears. When I looked over at Ruth, she seemed to disappear
into the background as this array of unfamiliar songs began and more and more
students came to join the singing. When asked at one point what songs she might
request, she just shrugged and smiled but said nothing.
What songs could she recommend that we could
sing? Some of us had a decent grasp on Spanish but not enough to recognize and
sing a Spanish song. This moment of disconnect was starkly different from the
laughter last night and represented an ever-present dynamic of our Oaxaca trip.
While there were times that we were comfortable and laughing, we were still
foreigners come to a new place for ten days and inevitably about to leave
again. We had still come because of money and capitalism and were tourists
attempting to mitigate our damage by speaking the Spanish that we could and
saying “please” and “thank you.” And when Ruth told us how happy she was to
have us in our home, all we could do is mutter “muchas gracias,” completely unable
to demonstrate our appreciation and therefore just settling on an inadequate
phrase to do the job.
2.
Resistance
Our host for the trip was Oliver, a
self-proclaimed cynic who happens to be German. Oliver is a current Mexican
citizen working for an organization called SURCO that arranged our entire trip
to Oaxaca. He liked to wear fedoras and was also passionately opposed to formal
education, which he felt was being used to churn out obedient citizens that
follow the law and listen to authority.
After our arrival in Oaxaca, he gave us
an extensive history on the teacher’s union strikes of 2006 including the history
of APPO. This history contextualized the current teacher’s union strikes that
are happening in Mexico City, which are drawing attention to topics including standardized
testing, teacher evaluation standards, and tenure terms. While it is true that
testing should be differentiated based on location (and that testing in general
should not be created by white men), there are multiple layers of politics muddled
into the strike. For example, many parents are frustrated with the teacher’s
union and the strike appears to be reaching an end without apparent compromise.
While I am still very much learning about the teacher’s strike as a resistance
movement, it is inherently confining and complicated that a movement meant to
resist corruption is also having adverse effects on some students and families.
For our project, Asa and I drew a brown
power fist and a Zapatista snail to symbolize resistance. I also wanted to
recognize the work of midwives, advocates, teachers, and several others that we
met that are doing day-to-day resistance work. How do we fit them into our
conversations around working in and out of the system? How do we acknowledge
and praise these forms of resistance as well?
3.
Land and Money Exploitation
“Let me tell you
about the words that I don’t like.” This was Simon Sedillo, a journalist who is
currently working on a book called Weapons, Drugs and Slavery: Crime and
Corruption in the US Political Economy. During this portion of the talk, he broke
down words like “sustainability” and “anti-oppression” for our group. In the
process, he also introduced me to one of my new favorite phrases: anglo
manarchism (essentially, be skeptical of the way that white men are co-opting
anarchism in the US). One of the reasons why I felt so inspired by Simon was
his ability to just be honest with those of us who identified as US citizens
about the privileges of that position. As a South Asian woman, who is also a US
citizen, I was reminded again of how to think about how these various parts of
my identity influence the work that I choose to do in the future. He challenged
us, “don’t make documentaries. Help other people make documentaries” and reminded
us that “there should always be young women of color at the table [of
non-profit organizations] who are making decisions.”
Simon also devoted the
majority of his speech to the devastating and violent ways that US systems of
exploitation harm Mexico, specifically through dominating the weapons trade,
funding and supporting violent dictators, and developing a network of private
prisons that exist as a system of modern slavery. This conversation directly connected
to the idea of land exploitation and the way that we continually perceive the land
to be our property, both so we feel ownership over the land and also so we feel
the right to claim the land as part of our own history. If we can claim it as
ours, then we can tell stories about it, make decisions over its use, watch it
fulfill our purpose and feel relief that the ramifications of these actions are
pushed elsewhere, somewhere we can’t see, somewhere with brown bodies so the US
doesn’t question.
4.
Gender
“Indigenous women carry culture and
therefore carry resistance” – Simon Sedillo
It is daunting to discuss Teotitlán del
Valle but I want to mention it because it felt in many ways like the core of
the trip. There we visited with members of Vida Nueva, the weaving cooperative,
who were primarily all women of different ages. The two women that I stayed
with, Doña Isabel and Doña Reina, showed us their land, their market, their temazcal,
and their weavings. We responded with questions in Spanish, wide smiles and
murmurs of gratitude. I am so appreciative of that trip and also extremely
aware that we were able to have that experience because of numerous factors,
including money.
I aim to continue reflecting on this
interplay of culture, resistance, and gender to eliminate pre-conceived notions
of what “resistance” looks like and also to consider a question that Simon
raised: the representation of indigenous women in media. I also want to say
that throughout the travel seminar, I was initially delighted by the consistent
mention of indigenous women with the people that we interacted with, and then
later also concerned and upset about who the term “women” encompasses and
excludes.
5.
Our ideal community
Over the summer, I was asked to draw or
write about my ideal community and I found that I was struggling. It seemed
strange to me that I would have trouble with an assignment that I initially
thought would be comfortable. The same question was brought up our last day in
Oaxaca and I found it just as confusing. The theoretical words that I wanted to
say such as “dismantling systems of power and oppression of course” and
“community accountability and justice” seemed hollow and meaningless. However,
on our first day in Oaxaca we learned about the cargo system, a physical
implementation of the community accountability framework that I had read about.
The cargo system was a person acting as a police officer in their community for
two years and then switching out. This system was an alterative form of
justice, for example, a man who was caught beating his wife was given a
consequence based on the wishes of his wife and enacted by his neighbors. Though
complicated, this system was a process that rejected the idea that putting
people behind bars is a solution.
//Where
do we go from here?
It is impossible to form genuine connection and reciprocity
within a 10-day period, but we still went and were present for 10 days. When I found
myself completely at a loss for how to behave, I remembered that hiding is
unproductive as well. I am looking forward to continued reflection and critique
on what it means to travel and return home, what to carry away, how to describe
without romanticizing, how to tell stories.
- Uma Venkatraman